Growing hybrid grapes is becoming more popular for wine and eating. This popularity comes from the fact that hybrid grapes can be grown in areas where the traditional European grapes cannot survive. It also comes about because more and more people are growing grapes in their backyard to produce their own vintage wine.
What are hybrid grapes? To answer this question, we must look back in history about 100 years to when the European vineyards were being decimated by the phylloxera louse that had been brought from North America. The European grape species, Vitis vinifera, is extremely susceptible to this louse. Vineyard after vineyard was succumbing to this imported pest as well as to grape diseases that had also come from America.
But Native American species of grapes had evolved with the pest and were resistant to its attacks on the vine's roots. In an effort to save the wine industry in France, some individuals began to cross breed the European and American species to obtain new varieties that had the wine characteristics of the European grapes and the resistance to the phylloxera louse and other diseases that the American grape species possessed.
It is from these breeding programs that the original hybrid grapes were grown. At first, the grape varieties produced were no better than their American parents. But as time has gone on, more complex hybrids have been made and the quality of the grapes has increased. Today, wines made from some hybrid grape varieties even rival the wines made in California and other traditional wine producing areas.
The way you grow hybrid grapes depends upon the varieties you choose. Some varieties' growth habit resemble their American parents while others grow like their European parents. And then there are those that are in-between in their growth habit. The growth habit of the variety will dictate what type of trellising system you will use to grow them. It also will dictate how the vines are pruned.
European varieties and hybrids that take after them tend to grow upright. These varieties will need a vertical shoot positioning trellis system that allows you to tie up the shoots as they grow upward. American varieties and hybrids that resemble them have a growth habit that droops. These vines are usually trained to a high wire about six feet off the ground and the shoots are allowed to grow downward over the growing season.
You can find a hybrid variety that will grow in almost anywhere in the United States. Alaska is about the only state you won't find one adapted to. The right hybrid grape variety for your location is dependent upon the percentage of native species found in the cross. Varieties adapted to northern locations tend to have a high percentage of the native Vitis riparia that lives in areas where the winters can go as low as -35F. Southern varieties generally have Vitis aestivalis in their background if from the southeast or other native species if found in areas like Texas.
Grape hybrids often are known by only the breeder's number. They may be called S.V 5-276 or S. 7053. Only the best of hybrids have a true name, such as Foch or Seyval. These named varieties have shown their worth over many years and are usually being used to make wines commercially where a name is important on the label.
Growing hybrid grapes may mean having to deviate from the traditional grape growing methods. Some grape hybrids produce way too much fruit because of hybrid vigor. You will have to remove some of the fruit early in the growing season to prevent them from over-bearing and succumbing to premature death. Each variety will behave slightly different. You will have to get to know the grape varieties you grow and adjust accordingly.
The big question is which varieties to grow? The answer to this depends on where you live. You must buy varieties that are adapted to your region. Some hybrid grape varieties mature their fruit in 135-140 days while others need 170 days or more to get ripe. The goal is to have ripe fruit so be sure that you're not growing a long season variety in a short season.
Hybrid grapes also vary in how winter hardy they are. Make sure that you get a very hardy variety if you live where the winters are cold. Or a southern adapted variety if you live where there's hot humid summers and long growing seasons. Winter hardiness is not the concern under those conditions.
What you are going to use the fruit for is also a concern when picking the right variety. Most hybrids have been developed to make wine. But there are varieties for eating too. Most of the grape varieties that you buy locally at a greenhouse or nursery are eating varieties. You will need to go online to find wine varieties for sale.
If you're passion is to grow grape vines in your backyard either for wine or eating, I suggest that you look into hybrid grapes. These have been bred to get the best of the tastes of the European grapes combined with the resistances and winter hardiness of the native grape species. Whatever your growing conditions are, you'll find a hybrid grape variety that is adapted to your area and needs.
Sunday, June 10, 2007
Control Snakes in the Garden
To have a snake or two in the garden is good. Non-poisonous snakes, such as the common garter snakes, are beneficial creatures because they eat pest insects, mosquito larvae, slugs, snails, crickets, rats, mice, voles and even other snakes which may be poisonous.
But if you really don't want snakes in your yard and garden here are a few tips to eliminate them without hurting or killing them.
Keep the lawn neatly cut and clean. Be careful using weed eaters because the sting from the fast moving string can kill them.
Snakes need cover for protection. Don't leave wood or brush piles sit in one spot for more than a month.
Keep leaves and other debris picked up.
Don't keep piles of rocks.
Stack firewood on a rack 12" off the ground.
Remove old lumber or junk piles.
Remove their source of food. Keep the insect and rodent population under control.
Place garbage bags in sealed trash cans away from the house.
Repair cracks along the foundation and fill holes around pipes. Snakes only need about a ¼ inch crack to get inside.
Sprinkle moth balls around the perimeter of your yard or garden. But beware that these can be dangerous to pets and children.
Sulfur from a garden center is said to keep snakes away.
Don't plant bushes and other plants too close to the foundation of the house.
Use mulch in the garden beds but not too thickly.
Trim the lowest limbs on shrubs and bushes so they are at least 12 inches from the ground.
Construct a fence around your garden with heavy galvanized screening. Make it three feet wide with quarter-inch mesh. Be sure to bury the bottom of it six inches below the soil surface.
But if you really don't want snakes in your yard and garden here are a few tips to eliminate them without hurting or killing them.
Keep the lawn neatly cut and clean. Be careful using weed eaters because the sting from the fast moving string can kill them.
Snakes need cover for protection. Don't leave wood or brush piles sit in one spot for more than a month.
Keep leaves and other debris picked up.
Don't keep piles of rocks.
Stack firewood on a rack 12" off the ground.
Remove old lumber or junk piles.
Remove their source of food. Keep the insect and rodent population under control.
Place garbage bags in sealed trash cans away from the house.
Repair cracks along the foundation and fill holes around pipes. Snakes only need about a ¼ inch crack to get inside.
Sprinkle moth balls around the perimeter of your yard or garden. But beware that these can be dangerous to pets and children.
Sulfur from a garden center is said to keep snakes away.
Don't plant bushes and other plants too close to the foundation of the house.
Use mulch in the garden beds but not too thickly.
Trim the lowest limbs on shrubs and bushes so they are at least 12 inches from the ground.
Construct a fence around your garden with heavy galvanized screening. Make it three feet wide with quarter-inch mesh. Be sure to bury the bottom of it six inches below the soil surface.
Things You Should Know About Gardening
Gardens come in different varieties like the plants you find in them. There are several gardening tips that can be used for all type of gardens.
1. Mulching protects your garden topsoil from being blown away. It also provides nutrients as it decomposes and improves the appearance of your gardens. Mulching has other benefits and is one of the most recommended gardening tips by gardeners and farmers alike.
2.Healthy plants are more disease resistant. Plant are like people, a person with a strong immune system can combat diseases. A healthy plant does the same.
3. Pests can be eradicated by cleaning the plant with a watery solution of soap. Just make sure to rinse after. This gardening tip is best heeded for fruit bearing trees or edible plants.
4. Using compost fertilizers are a great way to have healthy plants. It is also a great way to save money on expensive fertilizers. Non -organic fertilizers also tend to leave chemical residues that can accumulate in garden soils and harm not only the plants but the gardeners as well. They cause toxins to go to the water supplies. Another gardening tip recommended not just by farmers and gardeners but also by environmentalists.
5. There are several plants that are only suitable for a specified climate, a certain kind of soil or can only grow with certain plants. You have to know what plant grow in the conditions you have in your area this is for you to avoid unnecessary purchases. This is a money saving gardening tip.
6. Landscaping is a good investment which can double the value of your home. This is one gardening tip that can earn you money.
7. Growing grass on bare ground is an easy way to make your home look better and appreciate in value. This is one gardening tip that promotes earning money while growing grass legally.
8. Aside from looking great in your home, trees also provide some sort of protection from direct sunlight exposure and strong winds.
9. Vines on the walls, fences and overhead structures also would offer some protection and would also look great.
10. Flowers are beautiful, but they are also expensive. Get one that is resistant to many elements. Flowers from your local community already have developed resistance to conditions present in your area.
11. For most gardens plants, their roots go only as deep as 6 inches. Putting fertilizer deeper than that would be a waste of money. Put them shallower as they seep down when the plants are being watered.
12. Earthworms are important to plants. They till and aerate the soil for the roots to breathe. Non-organic fertilizers can kill them. This gardening tip dates back to the old days of gardening.
13. Having several kinds of insects that are beneficial to your garden would be good. These insects can be encouraged to stay by having diverse plants in your garden.
14. Spot spraying weeds with household vinegar, instead of using commercial weed-killers, can eradicate them. This is another environment friendly gardening tip.
15. Avoid putting too much mulch on tree trunks, this would encourage unwanted pests to reside on them.
16. Use plant varieties that are common to your area or have been taken from an area with similar conditions.
17. Be sure to know the plants that are poisonous. If you are intent on growing them, make sure to have the necessary cure available in your household. Take note of this gardening tip, it can save your life.
18. The best time to water plants is during mornings.
19. Before planting a new plant in your garden, you must consider its height and size when it matures. This garden tip can help you save money in the future.
20. Newly transplanted plants may require special attention during its first week. This is to reduce the stress and shock it got during transplantation.
And last but not the least of the gardening tips...
21. Plants are living entities. If you want them to grow in your garden you have to treat them as such. They need to be taken care of. They are like your pets, you look out for them. In return you get that feeling of contentment watching them thrive.
A good way to take care of them is to consider that plants might have some feelings too.
1. Mulching protects your garden topsoil from being blown away. It also provides nutrients as it decomposes and improves the appearance of your gardens. Mulching has other benefits and is one of the most recommended gardening tips by gardeners and farmers alike.
2.Healthy plants are more disease resistant. Plant are like people, a person with a strong immune system can combat diseases. A healthy plant does the same.
3. Pests can be eradicated by cleaning the plant with a watery solution of soap. Just make sure to rinse after. This gardening tip is best heeded for fruit bearing trees or edible plants.
4. Using compost fertilizers are a great way to have healthy plants. It is also a great way to save money on expensive fertilizers. Non -organic fertilizers also tend to leave chemical residues that can accumulate in garden soils and harm not only the plants but the gardeners as well. They cause toxins to go to the water supplies. Another gardening tip recommended not just by farmers and gardeners but also by environmentalists.
5. There are several plants that are only suitable for a specified climate, a certain kind of soil or can only grow with certain plants. You have to know what plant grow in the conditions you have in your area this is for you to avoid unnecessary purchases. This is a money saving gardening tip.
6. Landscaping is a good investment which can double the value of your home. This is one gardening tip that can earn you money.
7. Growing grass on bare ground is an easy way to make your home look better and appreciate in value. This is one gardening tip that promotes earning money while growing grass legally.
8. Aside from looking great in your home, trees also provide some sort of protection from direct sunlight exposure and strong winds.
9. Vines on the walls, fences and overhead structures also would offer some protection and would also look great.
10. Flowers are beautiful, but they are also expensive. Get one that is resistant to many elements. Flowers from your local community already have developed resistance to conditions present in your area.
11. For most gardens plants, their roots go only as deep as 6 inches. Putting fertilizer deeper than that would be a waste of money. Put them shallower as they seep down when the plants are being watered.
12. Earthworms are important to plants. They till and aerate the soil for the roots to breathe. Non-organic fertilizers can kill them. This gardening tip dates back to the old days of gardening.
13. Having several kinds of insects that are beneficial to your garden would be good. These insects can be encouraged to stay by having diverse plants in your garden.
14. Spot spraying weeds with household vinegar, instead of using commercial weed-killers, can eradicate them. This is another environment friendly gardening tip.
15. Avoid putting too much mulch on tree trunks, this would encourage unwanted pests to reside on them.
16. Use plant varieties that are common to your area or have been taken from an area with similar conditions.
17. Be sure to know the plants that are poisonous. If you are intent on growing them, make sure to have the necessary cure available in your household. Take note of this gardening tip, it can save your life.
18. The best time to water plants is during mornings.
19. Before planting a new plant in your garden, you must consider its height and size when it matures. This garden tip can help you save money in the future.
20. Newly transplanted plants may require special attention during its first week. This is to reduce the stress and shock it got during transplantation.
And last but not the least of the gardening tips...
21. Plants are living entities. If you want them to grow in your garden you have to treat them as such. They need to be taken care of. They are like your pets, you look out for them. In return you get that feeling of contentment watching them thrive.
A good way to take care of them is to consider that plants might have some feelings too.
Tips For Preparing a Planting Bed
If you are preparing beds for landscaping around your house this article should simplify the process for you. I say that because of everything that is written about this subject, some of it is accurate, some of it is just plain wrong, and much of it is much more complicated than it needs to be. I like to think of myself as Simple Simon. I find the easiest, yet most effective way to do things, and they work.
Let's assume that the area where you are planning your bed is now planted in grass. How do you get rid of the grass? Chemicals or no chemicals? Chemicals are easy, so we'll look at the chemical method first.
My favorite chemical for killing grass and weeds is RoundUp, and used properly it is effective. Rule number one: Read the label on the package, and mix the chemical exactly as recommended by the manufacturer. Rule number two: Assume that every plant that the RoundUp touches is going to die. It is a non-selective herbicide.
The first thing you need to do is mark out where your planting bed is going to be. Spend some time on this step. If you are landscaping around your house, give careful consideration to what is going to be planted in the bed, and then decide how large each plant is going to be when fully mature. You can keep plants trimmed to a certain size, but be realistic when you make these estimates. Trust me when I tell you, this is the number one mistake made by Do-it-Yourself landscapers. People are just afraid to make those beds large enough.
Typically, a bed should never be narrower than 42", and corner beds should be 12' in diameter. Islands. If you make those little tiny island beds that I see everywhere I am going to come over to your house and snap you with a wet towel! The island bed in your front yard should be 20' to 40' long, and a minimum of 12' in diameter on at least one end.
The easiest way to mark out your planting beds is to buy a can of marking paint at the hardware store. Unlike most spray paint, this only works when the can is inverted, and it is designed specifically for painting lines on the ground. They even have cans that spray chalk instead of paint. I've always used the paint, it holds up better if it gets wet.
Once you have the outline of the bed established and marked, mix up some RoundUp and spray all the grass and weeds inside the bed area. Do not put RoundUp in a sprayer that you intend to use for other purposes. You need a sprayer that is dedicated for the use of herbicides. When applying the spray, be very careful not to let the spray drift onto the grass and other plants that you do not want to kill.
To minimize spray drift, adjust the spray nozzle so the spray pattern is narrow and the droplets are larger. A wide, fine spray pattern is sure to drift outside of the intended area. Also keep the pressure in the sprayer quite low. Pump it just enough to deliver the spray. High pressure causes the spray to atomize and drift. Apply just enough spray to wet the foliage. If you have liquid dripping off the blades of grass, you are applying too much. More is not better.
Once sprayed, be careful not to step in the area that has been sprayed. Many people have had golden footprints across their lawn because they forgot and walked through what had been sprayed.
This is the difficult part, and the part that many people do not get, so pay close attention. The only way that the RoundUp can possibly work is if you leave it alone. Did you get that? Once you apply the RoundUp, don't do another thing with that bed for 72 hours. That's three very long days. I know you're anxious, but this is the price you pay for not planning ahead.
RoundUp is a systemic herbicide, which means that it has to be absorbed by the plant, then translocated throughout the plant. It takes three days for that to happen. If you go digging and chopping, you might just as well skip the spraying step. Go build a compost bin while you're waiting.
After three days the weeds and grass are going to look as healthy and happy as ever. Don't let 'em fool ya. They're as dead as dead can be. Providing the RoundUp didn't get washed off by rain within the first 24 hours of the waiting period. Now you can dig and chop to your heart's content.
However, the only digging that I do is to go around the edge of the bed and strip the sod back about 15". Just peel off about 1" and flip it into the center of the bed. This makes it easier to edge and mulch the bed if you get the sod out of the way. Now for the non- chemical method.
Mark out the outline of the bed as described above. Strip the sod back 15", just like above. Since you aren't using any herbicides I would dig down about 1-1/2" when removing the sod from the edges. Take the sod you stripped back and lay it in the center of the bed upside down and pack it down firmly. Now take newspaper or brown paper grocery bags and cover the entire bed area. Use 9 layers of newspaper. No matter what method you used, chemical or non chemical, you are now ready to fill the planting bed with topsoil.
Put 8 to 12" of good rich topsoil in the bed. Make sure the soil is higher in the back, closest to the wall, so the water drains away from the building. If you are creating an island planting make the center of the bed the highest point. Make sure the topsoil you buy is well drained and rich in organic matter. Buying topsoil is a tricky game, you've got to be careful and shop around. Topsoil is one item that you do not want to order over the phone, sight unseen.
This is what you are looking for when buying topsoil:
Topsoil that is rich in organic matter will be very dark in color. If the soil is light in color it is probably just fill sand. The other thing you've got to watch for is how well drained the soil is. Topsoil that has a clay base is poorly drained and sticky, and your plants will not be happy at all. They might even die if they are too wet. Once a clay based topsoil dries out it gets very hard.
Today most topsoil is run through a screener to remove the clumps, rocks, roots, and sticks. There is nothing wrong with buying unscreened topsoil, especially if you've visually inspected it and have found it to be of good quality. Actually, really good topsoil shouldn't have to be screened, but there is little of that quality topsoil to be had.
When you visit the yard where the soil is stockpiled, scoop up a handful of the topsoil and run it through your fingers. If it seems to be grainy, it is probably good soil. But if it appears to be tiny round balls that can be smashed between your fingers, it is probably a clay based soil that will trap water during rainy seasons, and get as hard as a rock when it's hot and dry.
Pay attention to how the soil is screened. Some machines just shake the soil over a set of screens to separate the debris, and others actually shred the soil. If the soil needs to be shredded, you don't want it. Look closely at the pile that the raw soil is coming from. If the soil in the raw pile is as hard as a rock, that's what the screened soil is going be once you get it in your beds. If it appears to be fairly loose, it's probably good soil.
Put 6-8" of topsoil in your beds. You are now ready to plant. Did you notice that I didn't get into rototilling and all kinds of extra work? Nor did I suggest that you add bone meal or any of those other goodies that the garden centers sell. I skipped the part about checking the pH too. pH is important, but I've found that good topsoil almost always has a suitable pH.
I've got a confession to make. In almost 30 years of growing, planting, landscaping and the like, I've never tested the pH of the soil on any project that I was working on. Is that smart? I don't know, but I've been successful in my efforts, and I have landscaped several hundred homes and grown tens of thousands of plants.
It's something to think about. What I'm really trying to say is don't get caught up in too many details, and be careful who you take advice from at those garden stores. Many of those sales people were flipping burgers last week.
Let's assume that the area where you are planning your bed is now planted in grass. How do you get rid of the grass? Chemicals or no chemicals? Chemicals are easy, so we'll look at the chemical method first.
My favorite chemical for killing grass and weeds is RoundUp, and used properly it is effective. Rule number one: Read the label on the package, and mix the chemical exactly as recommended by the manufacturer. Rule number two: Assume that every plant that the RoundUp touches is going to die. It is a non-selective herbicide.
The first thing you need to do is mark out where your planting bed is going to be. Spend some time on this step. If you are landscaping around your house, give careful consideration to what is going to be planted in the bed, and then decide how large each plant is going to be when fully mature. You can keep plants trimmed to a certain size, but be realistic when you make these estimates. Trust me when I tell you, this is the number one mistake made by Do-it-Yourself landscapers. People are just afraid to make those beds large enough.
Typically, a bed should never be narrower than 42", and corner beds should be 12' in diameter. Islands. If you make those little tiny island beds that I see everywhere I am going to come over to your house and snap you with a wet towel! The island bed in your front yard should be 20' to 40' long, and a minimum of 12' in diameter on at least one end.
The easiest way to mark out your planting beds is to buy a can of marking paint at the hardware store. Unlike most spray paint, this only works when the can is inverted, and it is designed specifically for painting lines on the ground. They even have cans that spray chalk instead of paint. I've always used the paint, it holds up better if it gets wet.
Once you have the outline of the bed established and marked, mix up some RoundUp and spray all the grass and weeds inside the bed area. Do not put RoundUp in a sprayer that you intend to use for other purposes. You need a sprayer that is dedicated for the use of herbicides. When applying the spray, be very careful not to let the spray drift onto the grass and other plants that you do not want to kill.
To minimize spray drift, adjust the spray nozzle so the spray pattern is narrow and the droplets are larger. A wide, fine spray pattern is sure to drift outside of the intended area. Also keep the pressure in the sprayer quite low. Pump it just enough to deliver the spray. High pressure causes the spray to atomize and drift. Apply just enough spray to wet the foliage. If you have liquid dripping off the blades of grass, you are applying too much. More is not better.
Once sprayed, be careful not to step in the area that has been sprayed. Many people have had golden footprints across their lawn because they forgot and walked through what had been sprayed.
This is the difficult part, and the part that many people do not get, so pay close attention. The only way that the RoundUp can possibly work is if you leave it alone. Did you get that? Once you apply the RoundUp, don't do another thing with that bed for 72 hours. That's three very long days. I know you're anxious, but this is the price you pay for not planning ahead.
RoundUp is a systemic herbicide, which means that it has to be absorbed by the plant, then translocated throughout the plant. It takes three days for that to happen. If you go digging and chopping, you might just as well skip the spraying step. Go build a compost bin while you're waiting.
After three days the weeds and grass are going to look as healthy and happy as ever. Don't let 'em fool ya. They're as dead as dead can be. Providing the RoundUp didn't get washed off by rain within the first 24 hours of the waiting period. Now you can dig and chop to your heart's content.
However, the only digging that I do is to go around the edge of the bed and strip the sod back about 15". Just peel off about 1" and flip it into the center of the bed. This makes it easier to edge and mulch the bed if you get the sod out of the way. Now for the non- chemical method.
Mark out the outline of the bed as described above. Strip the sod back 15", just like above. Since you aren't using any herbicides I would dig down about 1-1/2" when removing the sod from the edges. Take the sod you stripped back and lay it in the center of the bed upside down and pack it down firmly. Now take newspaper or brown paper grocery bags and cover the entire bed area. Use 9 layers of newspaper. No matter what method you used, chemical or non chemical, you are now ready to fill the planting bed with topsoil.
Put 8 to 12" of good rich topsoil in the bed. Make sure the soil is higher in the back, closest to the wall, so the water drains away from the building. If you are creating an island planting make the center of the bed the highest point. Make sure the topsoil you buy is well drained and rich in organic matter. Buying topsoil is a tricky game, you've got to be careful and shop around. Topsoil is one item that you do not want to order over the phone, sight unseen.
This is what you are looking for when buying topsoil:
Topsoil that is rich in organic matter will be very dark in color. If the soil is light in color it is probably just fill sand. The other thing you've got to watch for is how well drained the soil is. Topsoil that has a clay base is poorly drained and sticky, and your plants will not be happy at all. They might even die if they are too wet. Once a clay based topsoil dries out it gets very hard.
Today most topsoil is run through a screener to remove the clumps, rocks, roots, and sticks. There is nothing wrong with buying unscreened topsoil, especially if you've visually inspected it and have found it to be of good quality. Actually, really good topsoil shouldn't have to be screened, but there is little of that quality topsoil to be had.
When you visit the yard where the soil is stockpiled, scoop up a handful of the topsoil and run it through your fingers. If it seems to be grainy, it is probably good soil. But if it appears to be tiny round balls that can be smashed between your fingers, it is probably a clay based soil that will trap water during rainy seasons, and get as hard as a rock when it's hot and dry.
Pay attention to how the soil is screened. Some machines just shake the soil over a set of screens to separate the debris, and others actually shred the soil. If the soil needs to be shredded, you don't want it. Look closely at the pile that the raw soil is coming from. If the soil in the raw pile is as hard as a rock, that's what the screened soil is going be once you get it in your beds. If it appears to be fairly loose, it's probably good soil.
Put 6-8" of topsoil in your beds. You are now ready to plant. Did you notice that I didn't get into rototilling and all kinds of extra work? Nor did I suggest that you add bone meal or any of those other goodies that the garden centers sell. I skipped the part about checking the pH too. pH is important, but I've found that good topsoil almost always has a suitable pH.
I've got a confession to make. In almost 30 years of growing, planting, landscaping and the like, I've never tested the pH of the soil on any project that I was working on. Is that smart? I don't know, but I've been successful in my efforts, and I have landscaped several hundred homes and grown tens of thousands of plants.
It's something to think about. What I'm really trying to say is don't get caught up in too many details, and be careful who you take advice from at those garden stores. Many of those sales people were flipping burgers last week.
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